Recently a group of friends and I took a trip through eastern China before flying into Thailand for three weeks. Though not exactly remote cities, Fuzhou and Xiamen were definitely a different cup of tea from the fast, glamorous but slightly seedy flavor of Shanghai. In the past, my experience with the Fukinese is limited to the New York Chinatown street vendors, who have established an intricate underground system of selling knock-off merchandise without getting caught by the NYPD. Walkie talkies, an unintelligible dialect, and mad guts all formulate an impressive game of Dodge the Man In Blue. But bootleg gear isn't this community's bread and butter.
Fuzhou, a quiet but prosperous city of roughly 6.6 million, is the major source of undocumented
Chinese American aliens residing in the United States. This particular industry emerged in the 70's to atone for China’s political repression and policies of sterilization and forced abortion. Patrick Radden Keefe of the New Yorker wrote an entertaining piece about the exciting but infamous
oddyssey of New York Chinatown's most notorious human trafficker- a short petite woman named Sister Ping who grew up in Fuzhou. Aside from illegal racketeering, however, Fuzhou also has some of the dirtiest and most ill-maintained zoos in the world. A recent
article in the Speigel piqued our interest in Chinese zoos. It's a typical Chinese fallacy: Jump on an idea without fully realizing the actual overhead and maintenance it takes to run it. Many zoos are opened almost overnight, most privately owned, with a large inventory of animals with the assumption that it will undoubtedly attract tons of animal-loving visitors. Unfortunately the budget is often undermined, visitors never show, and ultimately the zoo falls into human-induced Darwinian chaos- birds are fed to alligators, alligators to the lions, and the lions sold to the Chinese black-market for food. The situation wasn't quite so dire at the Fuzhou Zoo, but I've never seen a more sad, depressed and luckless bunch. Monkeys in dirty square boxes. An orangutan, unflinching, unmoving, and spiritless. A whole pack of wolves, stuffed into a series of cages no larger than 10 ft by 40 ft total. The list goes on.
But I guess its all a bit comical, even absurd, my complaining of improper animal treatment in Fuzhou. I mean, just down the street, someone probably just paid $10,000 US dollars to be shipped on a month-long journey to be illegally smuggled to the states through some of the shadiest places on earth, with a likelihood of dying on the way, so that s/he can spend the next five years of his/her life paying off the debt of the cost of freedom. "But that's voluntary", one may argue in defense of the disadvantaged caged ones. A good rebuke would be to ask, "And who are the caged ones?" Hmmm...
Labels: commentary, travel